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Edward Cuming captures the new trend in men's fashion

Whether it's a call or a response to the world around us, Edward Cuming is keen to strip away the heaviness and formality of traditional menswear to create something that feels softer and less industrial, which is why he's featured in a portfolio of emerging menswear designers in Wallpaper's September 2022 Style issue.

His approach is both technical and creative. Often guided by the materiality of the garments, he “recontextualises fabrics, using traditional womenswear fabrics to create a subtle, sensitive masculinity”. One process involves intensively washing lightweight linings until they become “really silky and tousled”. For the Australian designer, using these difficult-to-handle, delicate fabrics became a personal challenge. “They scared me a lot,” he says; eventually he developed a sense of how different fabrics would behave after treatment. “You let the fabric speak to you and stop trying to make it into something it doesn't want to be. I like that process of transformation.”

New menswear: Edward Cuming F/W 2022

Jacket, £700; shirt, £800; sweater (around the neck), £515; trousers, £675, all by Edward Cuming. Shoes, £349, by Hereu

(Photo credit: Leonardo Scotti)

His desire is to create wardrobe building blocks that are “clean, clear and ordered.” A long duster coat and sheer vests and shorts that skim the body are not only emotional but practical. Shirts and suits, while traditional menswear, are reimagined with viscose linings from leftover stock and washed so the colors bleed into each other. “It's a laborious process, using a plain, simple fabric. Washing and cutting it by hand turns it into something really special.” This complicated process is possible because the brand is still a manageable size—his team of four works from his studio in Salamanca. “We can cut 150 shirts by hand,” he says.